Tip: EZ way to stuff a hay net

Sometimes I like to “fork out” hay from my round bale instead of letting the animals free graze on it.  Unfortunately if I just fork off some hay and toss it on the ground surely a lot of it will go to waste which is where a hay net comes in handy.   If you’ve never used a hay net before they are a PITA to fill.  Here is my trick to getting the buggers open and filled with lots of leafy goodness.

1. Employ an old muck bucket and put your hay net in it.

2. Stuff bucket full of hay, feel free to jump up and down on the hay to cram it full

3. Pull up on the draw string and remove from bucket

4. Hang your net where the alpacas can enjoy it

 

There ya go!  Of course it works for square hay too but squares cost to darn much for me to bother with.   700lbs of round bale hay costs me $30 the same weight in small 40lb squares would cost me $62.   I’ll stick to feeding my cost effective rounds 🙂

 

FAF: Why is Alpaca Fiber So Warm?

Hello Fiber Arts Friday Fans!  It’s been a while since I’ve done a science behind alpaca fiber so here we go.  Today’s question, why is alpaca warmer than wool?

What is Alpaca Fiber?

Well all know that fiber from a sheep is called wool and the stuff that we wash and comb on our own heads is called hair but what is alpaca?  The argument can be made that alpaca fiber is really a hair but is often referred to as wool but for the majority of breeders we refer to it as, fiber.

The fiber that is sheared from the alpaca is produced by primary and secondary hair follicles and even a derived secondary which grows in both the primary and secondary follicles.

Primary fibers are what we call guard hair and are straight and stiff often giving that prickly sensation next to the skin. These fibers are most present on the legs and brisket of the alpaca and sometimes can be seen as a halo above the finer secondary undercoat or are called “cria tips” on new born alpacas.

Secondary fiber is the soft undercoat that gives the alpaca a soft handle. Secondary fibers cluster around a primary follicle and are the fiber that creates the crimp.  Note: You cannot have secondary or derived secondary fibers without a primary fiber, therefore breeding to eliminate primary fiber results in a low density high micron fleece. Surprisingly, as fiber density increases the diameter of primary fibers decreases as it is forced to share skin real estate with secondary and derived secondary fibers.

Derived Secondary fibers are the finest of the 3 types and are what breeders strive for.  A derived secondary follicle has its own root structure but share the same exit point from the skin of a secondary fiber.  This type of fiber can only be identified through a skin biopsy.

Alpaca Fiber Structure:

Alpaca fiber is made up of 3 different parts, Cortical Cells, Cuticle, Intercellular Binder.

Cortical Cells – These are the body builders of the fiber and give it strength along with creating the crimp that we love so much.  What causes crimp? Cortical Cells are made up of 2 parts, the orthocortex and paracortex.  These 2 parts twist around each other creating the crimp in Huacaya or the twist in a suri.  This crimp causes the actual fiber length to be 10%-30% longer than the staple length.  Unfortunately crimp is not a reliable when determining fineness.

Cuticle – to protect the cells each fiber is covered in a material that we often refer to as scale.  This protective coating is what provides the fiber its strength and also makes the fiber smooth to the touch.  This is what we feel when we check for handle in a fleece as we rub the fibers between our fingers.  The scale is also reflective and produces luster.

Intercellular Binder – It’s the glue that holds the 2 cell parts together within the cuticle.

Findings:

Alpaca owners who have been telling others this fess up,  “alpaca fiber is warm because it is hollow and traps air for extra insulation.” I heard this from several breeders and never really questioned it until now.

The only medullated (hollow) hair fibers are the thick prickly guard hair which none of us wants in our fiber.  So what causes alpaca’s superior warmth? The simple answer fineness and density.  Alpaca fiber is finer, allowing more hairs to occupy the same space, more fiber = more trapped air = warmer.

Example Wool vs Alpaca

Let’s take a typical worsted weight yarn.  The memory of wool causes the yarn to look fluffy and springy and less fibers are needed to occupy the space for a worsted weight yarn.  The alpaca yarn does not have memory, is finer and requires many times more strands of fiber to occupy the same space needed to make a worsted weight yarn.  (I keep hearing it’s about 3x more but have not found research to back this yet).

Because dense fine alpaca fiber weigh less than wool, lighter weight yarns and garments can be made from alpaca that have the same or superior insulating properties to thicker wool garments.

UPDATE 8/13/11: According to the Yocom-McColl Wool Testing Labs alpaca fiber is NOT medullated (hollow) but most fibers DO have a trapped air bubble within the fiber!  Check it out! The dark bubble in the center of the fiber is trapped air.

Alpaca fiber with air bubble
Wool Fiber from Sheep

Thank you and this concludes today’s Fiber Arts Science Friday 🙂 Be sure to check out the link-parties page!

References:
Elite Alpaca Breeding Systems 
SRS Alpacas International

Understanding Cost to Sell Alpaca Fiber at a Profit

AlpacasWhether you’re thinking starting an alpaca farm or are a seasoned rancher the question is always the same.  What do you do with all that fleece?!  I’m surprised to find that many folks shear it, bag it, and store it without doing anything at all.  (FYI Fiber does have a shelf life).

Since many folks frown upon eating alpacas the only ways to cover your cost of ownership of these animals is to sell fiber, products or breeding stock.  Yes, you CAN make your alpacas pay for themselves with fleece sales but only if you manage your farm properly.

Alpaca ownership is first and foremost a business. As with any business you have to realize what your costs are and work on lowing them to realize a profit.  Here are the key factors:

  1. Location: Alpacas eat grass which for the most part is free! That is unless you live in an arid climate then you have to spend $$$ on hay.  Money spent on hay is money out of our pocket.  My alpacas are grass fed 6-8 months out of the year. Yippy, FREE food!
  2. Feed: There’s no substitute for good pasture management.  A good pasture with quality forage is everything that an alpaca needs to thrive.  I do not grain my alpacas unless I have a pregnant dam that is skinny and needs help maintaining weight.  For 6-8 months out of a year I am able to “feed free” so to speak on quality pasture alone.
  3. Supplements: Since the pasture is supplying all of the feed it is important to know what vitamins and minerals you may be lacking.  Soil samples will help you decide what to supplement. We are low in selenium in my neck of the woods and I’ve opted to offer free choice Dumor Sheep Mineral to all of our alpacas since it contains the minerals I need at a very affordable cost.
  4. Water: Offering quality fresh clean water to drink is another key.  Keep your animals hydrated especially in the winter.  Heated buckets in winter are a MUST.  Hay is dry and alpacas need water to help the digestion process. Alpacas will not drink enough water if it is frozen or ice cold. The cost of running a heated bucket is minimal to what a vet visit will cost you should they colic or become anemic.
  5. Worming ,Vaccinations, General Health: You can save $ by giving shots yourself but in some states (like NY) only a veterinarian can give rabies shots.  Also learn how to clip toenails, trim teeth, run fecals, do blood draws, etc yourself. The more you empower yourself the less you pay your vet.
  6. Shearing: Finally, what does it cost you to get the fiber OFF the alpaca?

Calculating Cost per Pound and Ounce:

Most of us will sell fleece by the ounce or by the pound so when you’re figuring your costs you want to know what your costs are in terms of costs per ounce or costs per pound of fleece.  I narrow this down to what it costs to care for 1 alpaca per year.  That way when I weigh out the usable fleece I know what that alpaca costs me in terms of fleece weight!

Here are my 2010 and 2011 calculations for yearly cost per alpaca.  Last year I had a herd of 9 this year I’ll be up to 16.  In most cases the cost of care per head goes down with more animals you own.

2011 Projections (2010 in RED)

6 months Grass: $0
6 months Hay: $17.5 ($33)
Grain: $7.5 (same)
Minerals: $1.25 ($2.5)
Syringes: $2.5 ($3)
Wormer: $6.5 ($10)
Rabies: $2.25 ($21)
Heated Water: $1.25 ($2.20)
Summer Fans: $1.25 ($2.20)
Shearing: $5 ($30)
Teeth: $0.25 ($10)
Misc Vet: $10 (same)
———————————-
Total: $55.25 ($123.90)***

***This is the cost to care for 1 alpaca on our farm per year.  This does NOT include other factors of running a business like property tax, gas, hardware, equipment, travel, etc.  I include those factors in my Mark Up % when pricing products since I retail more than just alpaca fiber. Read More About Pricing Products Here

So what does 1 ounce or pound of fiber cost you?  Co-ops, commercial mills, and other companies that purchase your fiber will only want the best quality.  Outside of breeding for better fiber it is very important to handle it properly after shearing to maximize your yield.  Skirt the fleece removing all large vegetable mater, discolorations and guard hair.  Then bounce on table or tumble to remove small debris and dirt.  Dry your fleece in an open bag next to a dehumidifier for 24hrs before weighing.

This clean dry weight is your prime sellable fleece.  I’ll typically get 3 to 6 pounds of high quality fiber per alpaca.  For the purpose of this exercise let’s use the average of 4.5lbs. For comparison the average sheep will produce 7.5lbs of fiber but 40-50% of that weight is grease.

Prime Raw Fiber

4.5lbs = $55.25 ($123.90)
4.5lbs = 72 oz
Cost per oz = $0.77 ($1.72)
Cost per lb = $12.28 ($27.53)

As you can see small changes in your heard management practices can make a big difference in your bottom line. Here are the changes we are making to lower our costs from 2010 to 2011

6 months Hay: Moving from feeding small square bales to large rounds
Rabies: vaccinating whole herd vs only those that are traveling (required by NYS)
Shearing: Cost of me shearing vs hired shearer
Teeth: Cost of me trimming teeth vs hired shearer

Processing and Selling Your Fiber

Most people do not buy fiber from you in the “raw” state but are more apt to purchase fiber as roving or yarn so let us also look at those costs (less shipping).

Cost/lb at a NY mill (total with costs added from above)

Roving/Bat = $12.50 ($24.78 $40.03)
Pin Drafted = $15.50 ($27.78 $43.03)
Yarn = $26.75 ($39.03 $54.28)

Cost/oz at a NY Mill (total with costs added from above)

Roving/Bat = $0.78 ($1.55 $2.50)
Pin Drafted = $0.97 ($1.74 $2.68)
Yarn = $1.67 ($2.44 $3.39)

Fiber Pools and Co-ops

Another outlet for your fiber is to send it off to fiber pools or co-ops.  At these places your fiber is combined with those of other farms into large commercial runs for products like socks, hats, yarn, blankets etc. These pools and co-ops willthen allow you to purchase product back at or below processing costs and in some cases will pay dividends back to their member in profitable years.  Examples: NEAFP and AFCNA

Alpaca Blanket Project

This company started a few short years ago and has grown considerably.  They are now able to offer up to $5 per pound for your raw fleece.  Members can also purchase blankets back at a discounted rate.

Selling to Mills Directly

Many small cottage mills will purchase alpaca fiber directly but at a price/lb.

Large production commercial mills have also started purchasing alpaca fiber from North American ranchers but only beige or white fleeces.  I know alpacas come in 22 different colors but it is the light colored animals that will be called for in commercial production.  If you don’t believe me visit the herds in Peru some time…. All beige and white.

Scrap Fiber

All the calculations above are based on “commercial” prime quality fiber; fiber that you can sell to mills and manufacturers directly. However, a typical alpaca will yield 9-14 pounds of fiber over all so what to do with all the other fiber?  I consider sales of this fiber to be a bonus and there are MANY outlets for it, here are some of the things I do with my neck, leg, and belly fibers.

Rugs and Rug Yarn – Mills are now offering rug weaving and rug yarns.  Mix up a bag of skirted scraps (2” or longer) for a colorful rug yarn that can be woven, crochet or knit into soft bath mats or have the mill make the rugs for you.

Felt – Purses, bags, hats, coasters, rugs, pillows, dog beds, comforters, artwork and more.  Wet felting fabric yourself or having the mill do it for you can open up a whole new world of possibilities.  Be creative!

Stuffing – We all have the “garbage” bag where all the shorts and swept up scraps go to die. This too can be used.  Fill up suet feeders or chicken wire cage with fiber scraps as a nesting feeder for spring birds.  Wash and dry scraps to remove smell and use these unsavory pieces to stuff dog toys.  My dogs go NUTS for alpaca stuffed toys.

Conclusion:

As the inflated price of alpacas comes down to sustainable levels the majority of alpaca farms will soon be looking to cut costs and breed for fiber profitability.  With hard work, conservative planning, artistic ability, marketing and salesmanship; the cottage and commercial future of alpaca fiber will thrive.

Creating a Pasture or Paddock Paradise

The concept of a Paddock Paradise is the brain child of Jaime Jackson who wrote a wonderful book on it.  (buy book here).   The general idea of a paddock paradise is to create an environment for your horse that as closely mimics their natural habitat allowing them to travel distance and obstacles throughout the day instead of standing in a stall or munching on lush pasture.

The paddock or pasture is engineered such that a track or lane is formed around the outside perimeter and when possible includes natural obstacles such as creek crossings, hills, down trees, shade trees and more.  Having a track around the pasture area allows the horses to move from point A to point B taking the longest route possible especially if things a horse wants are spread out within the track.  For example: Hay may be at one point in the track but shelter is at another point, water at another and minerals at even another position.  Your equine friend now has to get moving if they want something instead of just shuffling from one corner of the stall to another or one. 

If you want to learn more about giving your horses a more stimulating and natural environment check out these
Paddock Paradise References:
http://www.paddockparadise.com
http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/

Since I have been slowing taking down old fencing and putting up new perimeter fencing I have recently gotten out the graph paper and have been engineering my own paddock paradise (pp) for my small herd.

A little about my set up:

Acreage: 11 total but a little over 3 acres for horse use
Horses: 3 total – 2 mare, 1 gelding
Perimeter Fence: Wood Posts w/Electric Tape top and 3 electric braid rope under that
Mud Paddock: Enclosed with field fence with water/minerals and shelter.  Horses are locked full time in here spring and fall so they do not damage the 3 acre field.

Paddock Paradise Changes:

Track Fence: Step in fiberglass posts with Tape on top and 1 strand of braided rope under
Track: Track will be 12’ wide on the long sides and 20+ feet wide in corners to allow for resting/feeding stations
Pastures: Having a track will allow me to easily create (3) 1 acre rotational pastures with different entrance points for each yet keep my single point for water/mineral and shelter.

Dutch Hollow Acres Pasture Paddock Paradise

 

 Why am I making these changes?

–       I really wanted to create rotational grazing spaces but didn’t want to have the extra work of having to halter/lead each horse to the new pasture which also meant having to haul water to each of those pastures.  I also would have to be conscious that there would be no shelter in the rotational parts which would make me watch the weather even more.

–       In spring/fall when the ground is wet and muddy my horses are stuck in the mud paddock and stand still for almost a month or more before the ground freezes or dries enough to turn them out.  The track can be used year round and keep them walking by putting hay far away from shelter/water.

–       My horses are FAT! All that green grass with little walking on their part = one fat horse.  If I were to put a GPS on one of them for a day I’d doubt they’d walk more than ¼ of a mile.  Having this setup has proven that horses typically walk 2-7 miles a day on their own vs 1/2 mile or less with traditional paddocks.

–       Simple answer: Cut my work load down while increasing my horse’s!

If you are thinking of doing something similar I highly recommend getting the book.  It helps you a lot in all the planning.  Get out the graph paper and try different layouts for your property and keep in mind that mechanical equipment like trucks, trailers, tractors, mowers have to be able to get from point A to B also.

I’ve also been toying with the idea of doing a similar thing with my alpaca paddocks.  With the lush green grass in WNY I have some overweight alpacas and I’m thinking if I can get them walking more it’ll keep them in a better body score.  If I add areas with stone dust it would also help keep their nails trimmed too!

Again for more information about Paddock Paradise 

http://www.paddockparadise.com
http://paddockparadise.wetpaint.com/

New Alpaca Run-In Shed/Barn

The sight was cleared in time with just 2 days to spare.  I got a call last night that our new shed was on it’s way up from PA and scheduled to be delivered at 8am Tuesday morning.  Here is is 8:29am and I’m already writing to say I have my shed!  It still needs some pushing around to get it exactly where I wanted it and lined up but it’s here!

I got my shed from a young Amish guy named Sam.  Really really nice guy who had a lot of questions about alpacas.  Anyway here’s his contact information if you are in the market for a shed or full size barn.  He and his crew cover all of NY and PA and can build anything from this little shed to Montior style barns.  I’m keeping his card for when I need a new barn 🙂

SSR Contracting
84 Billman Lane
Mill Hall, PA 17751
Wood and Steel Construction

Sam Stolzfus
Phone:  814-280-7099
Fax:  814-625-0010

Photos of our new shed with a few of the views the alpaca boys have from the top of the new pasture.  I can see why they like it up here soo much.