Alpaca Death – Preserve an alpaca hide into a fur

Warning: If you’re a vegetarian, vegan, or think that the killing of Bambi’s mom was cruel you do not want to read this post.

The beautiful alpaca in the photo above is named Miracle.  She was a sterile female and a huge one at that.  Unfortunately a combination of her age and mammoth size lead to the failure of her knee.  I had the awful decision to make to euthanize her and end her suffering since repairing the damage wasn’t possible. Since this was not an expected event I was left scrambling around trying to figure out what to do with her and I didn’t want other alpaca ranchers to be in my same shoes. So, I’m writing this post so others can set up their “disaster plan” and so they have the names, numbers, materials, and talent handy should themselves in the same predicament.

What to do with the body?

Veterinary Research:
Call your vet, local college or veterinary college and see if they would be interested in the body for research purposes.  In my case Cornell is out of research monies and didn’t want her.

Burial:
There’s always the popular burial either on your property or at a pet cemetery.  If you are going to bury on your property just be conscious of your well water and how a decomposing body might affect it.  If you do not own a backhoe you’ll want to have the name/number of someone who can come to you or of a local pet cemetary.  You laugh but I actually have a horse buried at a pet cemetary because it was the middle of the winter and we did not own a backhoe or have the ability to dig through frozen ground.

Cremation:
Many pet cemeteries and vet colleges offer cremation services.

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Ok this is the last time I’m going to tell you to stop reading if you’re “sensitive” in nature.  The truth is alpaca ranching is a business.  You paid good $ for this animal either out right or through breeding and now it’s gone.  The idea of just digging a hole in the pasture and throwing it away is pretty hard to swallow if you’re like me.  There are ways you can capitalize on the death of your alpaca.

Meat:
Because your alpaca is now full of tranquilizers, anti-inflammatory meds and carcinogens for treatment and for the vet to put them down, the ability to render them for food is out of the question.  I know the thought of eating your alpaca is probably not too appetizing to some but if you’re like me it probably crossed your mind.  I can’t help it, I’m a carnivore and I love meat and yes, she looked tasty to me and my husband.  I’ll probably get hate mail but the truth is if she died of natural causes she’d be in our freezer.

Fur:
Yes fur.  Most of us sell those cute cuddly Alpaca teddy bears, fur lined gloves, hand warmers, hats, rugs and more but did you really stop and think where they come from?   They all came from the untimely death of alpacas in Peru.  The people in Peru realized that the death of an animal can also be capitalized on and so should we.  The process is a little gross to many but here are the steps you need to follow to preserve the hide so it can be processed into a fur.

  • Skinning – Make sure you have the name and number handy of someone who can skin the alpaca for you.  In my case the local butcher was willing to skin her for $30 with salt or $20 without.  To make the process easy on the butcher and for best results, this step should be done just after death while the body is still warm and before the skin cools and tightens.  Make sure you or your butcher removes the tail bone and splits open the tail’s tube.
  • Scraping– Your butcher may or may not do this step. In my case this is where I took over.   Scraping is where you need to remove access fat and meat from the hide.  The tools are simple, nitrile gloves and a very sharp knife with sharpening stone.
    • Grab a hold of the fat or meat with your off hand and scrape the knife across the skin membrane while pulling back on the fat/meat.  Surprisingly the skin is very elastic and can take quite a bit of pressure from a blunt scrape but be careful not to puncture the skin.  Holes can be repaired by the tannery but every hole will cost you $$$.
    • The more time and effort you take into scraping the skin down to a clean membrane the better your end product will be.
  • Salting – The application of salt to the hide stops the decomposition process and halts bacterial growth.  You’ll want to use non-iodized table salt and a lot of it.  Restaurant food suppliers will be able to sell this to you and it is relatively cheap.  $8 for 25lbs worth and you’ll want to have about 75-100lbs on hand.  My butcher did not scrape our hide and I salted it for 24hrs before I had time to scrape.
    Salted Hide
    • Lay out the hide on a tarp fleece side down and stretch it out exposing all the skin
    • Pour on 25lbs of salt in the center of the hide and use your hands to spread the salt evenly to all areas of the hide.  Be sure to evenly cover it and don’t forget the edges or any folds including the tail.  Any place that the salt doesn’t touch can and will rot or the hair could fall out during processing.
    • After 24hrs you’ll notice that the salt looks wet and probably bloody in spots that might not have been cleaned well.  Wet salt wont wick moisture anymore and you’ll need to do a salt change.  Pick up the hide and shake off the salt and brush away any sticky salt areas.  Lay the fleece back out and re-salt just as you had before.
    • You may need to repeat the above process again otherwise let the hide site for 2-3 more days for it to dry out.  Check it daily, you don’t want the hide to dry out stiff while it is laying flat, you’ll still want some play in the skin so you can fold it for transport.
    • Tanning – The next step is to tan the hide to permanently preserve the skin.  If you want to know what a tanned alpaca hide will be like think deer skin.  I’m sure many of us have owned a pair of deer skin gloves, if not, go try on a pair at the hardware store.  The finished hide will be thin and velvety soft on the skin side and your alpacas beautiful fleece on the other.  In the tanning process the fleece will be washed, skirted and combed so you’ll have a fluffy end product.  You may opted to use your shearers and clip the fleece to a more manageable staple length if it is too long.
  • Shipping– Once your fleece is dry you’re going to need to get it to the tanner.  Chances are you don’t live close to one like I do and you’ll need to ship it.
    • Shake the salt off the hide.
    • Fold carefully so not to cause cracks with the hair side in
    • UPS recommends shipping of hides in cardboard boxes or burlap bags.  Inform them you are shipping a salted hide.
    • DO NOT STORE IN PLASTIC, EVER!  Feed bags turned inside out work nicely for smaller hides.
Miracle's hide being inspected by Sivko.
  • The tannery I’m using is.
    • Sivko Fur Inc.
      3089 County Rt 119
      Canisteo, NY 14823
      Phone 607-698-4827
      Fax 607-698-4344

Want to see their work?  Stop by any Cabella’s, they do all of the tanning for the furs and mounts in their stores.  Because they are about an hour from our ranch I had the opportunity to visit their facility.  I was able to see and get my hands on many different hides like deer, buffalo, bobcat, gazelle, and even an elephant!  Here are some photos I took while there.

Tanning Drum
Shaving the hide to an even thickness.
Hides in preserving solution.
  •  Finished Product – The kind folks at Sivko took the time with me to go over ideas of what you can do with your finished fur.  They even carefully unpacked a finished bear skin rug to show me what they are able to offer.  Ultimately I decided to turn Miracle into a carriage lap robe.  While my hide is being tanned I’m now on the hunt to find the fabric I’d like to use for the lining to my blanket.  Since Miracle was a beautiful red/brown alpaca I’m thinking something light in color maybe a cream, beige, or yellow.

I hope this post helps others cope with the loss of their alpaca, sheep, goat or other livestock where they would like to preserve the fleece.  The process might not be desirable or fun but the end product is something that can be sold to recoup the costs of losing the animal or something that you can keep as a reminder of them forever.

At this time Miracle’s hide has been scrapped, salted and sent to Sivko Furs to be tanned.  The entire process of tanning and finishing the fur into a lap robe will take 8-12 weeks.  Stay tuned for more information and to see the finished robe!

The Dark Side of Fiber Arts

My fiber guest room

The bright side of fiber working is the thrill of creating a usable end product from the fuzzy creatures that happily munch on hay in my front yard.  The dark side unfortunately comes from storing, sorting, and keeping inventory of all that fiber!

I long for a fiber studio where I can have a wall full of bins to keep fiber, yarn, fittings and tools on one side and counter space, dye pots and room to twist rope on the other.  Instead my storage space is shared with the small 11×11 guest room we have.  With a bed, 2 dressers, and a night stand taking up most of the space I also manage to store all of my yarn, fiber and finished product inventory.  It is a controlled chaos until someone comes to visit and then all of that “stuff” has to find a new home so my guests are not sleeping in yarn and roving.  Though I would think it would make for a soft, warm and comfy bed. 

Sadly the fiber craziness isn’t confined to just one room.  That space is just for storage.  When it comes time to actually card, spin or make rope I then consume the rest of the house.  I’m so happy my husband seems to tolerate most of my work.  That is until I am spanning yarn 25’ across the living room and into the kitchen to make a new mecate.  As long as I don’t block the view of the TV causing his Mario character to die some horrible death in lava I can continue my work.  

Oh how I long for my own space.  As I dream of a new barn I think of ways of how I can incorporate a fiber studio into it.  I’m thinking, who needs a hay loft? That could be one great fiber studio!  Yeah now that would be ideal, storage for the shearing harvest and plenty of room for a place to work with fiber.

Check out what others are up to on Fiber Arts Friday with Wonder Why Gal

Fiber Arts Friday

It’s Fiber Arts Friday and to honest I really haven’t had the time to do much fibery stuff as of late.  I’ve been caring for a very sick puppy, a very pregnant horse, and attempting to keep the alpacas clean and relatively mud free now that spring has decided to show up.

Speaking of keeping fiber clean I have been doing some work with all the fiber I washed a few weeks back.  I’ve slowly been hand carding it into semi-worsted rollags in prep to spin it into strands for more mecate.  I can see myself wanting a electric drum carder and a spinning wheel really soon to make these steps go faster.  Good timing on Wonder Why Gal’s post on drum carders for FAF.

Last week I did make 2 new mecates and a dog leash I can share with you.  I guess that’s all for now, hopefully I’ll have something a little more exciting next week.

How to make a Recycled Baling Twine Rug

I mentioned in an earlier post that I recycle the twine that comes off my hay bales.  I really try not to cut the twine when freeing a bale and if I have to I make a conscious effort to cut it next to the knot.  This way I have a length of twine that is the most usable.  With most of my hay used up I have a healthy pile of twine ready for repurposing.  This time it went into a rug.

 

TwineRug1
Recycled Twine Door Mat
 

TwineRug2
Great for scrubbing dirt off your boots
Materials:
Size ‘P’ crochet hook
Baling Twine – approximately 100 bales worth for a 3×2 foot mat
Scissors
Grocery bag
Muscle power!

Preparing the Twine

Step 1:
Twine around bales have knots in them.  You want to cut these knots off and toss them in your grocery bag.  Jute twine is a nice fire starter so I keep mine to get a camp fire going in the summer.

Step 2:
Knot each strand to another to form a long jute rope.  Make sure the knots are nice and tight and trim any extra twine hanging out on the off side of the knot.  Yes, I save this too for fire starter

Crochet Pattern

Row 1:  All SC – This row will be the Length of your rug – Add one extra SC and turn
Row 2: Into backs only! SC all the way add one and turn
Row 3-?: Repeat Row 2 until desired width of rug is achieved

By crocheting into backs only this creates a ribbed pattern which helps with 2 things.  It gives your knots a place to hang out and creates ridges so you can scrub the mud and dirt off your barn boots.

Though the pattern is very simple I would have to say this is an intermediate project for one reason.  Twine is a P.I.T.A. to work with!  It’s not flexible, carries a twist and every 6 feet you have a knot to deal with.  When you’re finished with your rug, your hook arm will be very very tired.

If you’re part of the Fiber Arts Friday crowd check out Wonder Why Gal for more cool projects.

Things To Do With Baling Twine

Does your barn look like mine? You have an old feed bag or muck bucket that just collects baling twine each time you feed hay? If you really are like me, you pay close attention to how you take off the twine. I ultimately try to remove the twine without cutting it but if I must cut it I do so as close to the knot as possible just in case I find a use for my bucket-o-twine later.

I thought I’d share with you some things that I do to recycle my twine.

– Hold up a broken gate
– Tie down a tarp over a cattle panel to make a shelter
– Braided into a wisp to groom a horse
– Tie up horse tails into mud knots or to hold a braid
– Fix horse blankets
– Tie panels together for a temporary catch pen
– Chain some together to make a herding tape to round alpacas up
– Braid into leashes and lead ropes – bit itchy on the hands but good in a pinch
– Use as a break-away for cross ties or trailer ties
– Woven, knotted or crocheted into door mats
– Above mats wrapped around a post or on a wall for horses to scratch on
– Use in the garden for peas and tomatoes
– I have organic twine and it makes great kindling for fires

Sorry I’m having issues with comments.